| Pin Number | Pin Name | Direction | Description |
| 1 | GND | --- | Ground |
| 2 | TX | --> | Data Transmission |
| 3 | MBUS | <--> | Control bus |
| 4 | RX | <-- | Data Recive |
| A | Vbat | Voltage source | |
| B | is battery type Li ion 74.5kohm to ground. NiMh 35Kohm to ground. | ||
| C | BSI | battery thermistor. 25K to 40K | |
| D | Gnd | --- | Ground |
Someone suggested another pinout for Nokia 3310: 1=MBUS; 2=GND; 3=RX; 4=TX
The Nokia 3200 is that you can create your own custom covers, using photos or your own design or artwork.The Nokia 3200 has an integrated digital camera, which you can use to take snaps, send to friends, download to your computer, or print and use to make your own cover design. The 3200 also has a built-in FM radio, as well as support for wallpaper, polyphonic ring tones and Java games, making it a good all-round fun phone.This is really a toy camera phone, and the new 3220 is a much better choice provided that you don't need the built-in radio.
Nokia 3200 may in case falls in some problems. Here is the Schematic diagram for this mobile.
The bad: The Nokia 2600 has a painfully slow menu interface. Also, it suffers from a somewhat flimsy construction and the speakerphone quality is just average.
In this tutorial we will interface Nokia 3310 LCD with AT89C51.The Nokia 3310 LCD is based on a PCD8544 48x84 pixels matrix LCD controller.
NOTE:Nokia 3310 LCD works on voltage level of 3.3v.To get this voltage level 10K resistor array, LED, diodes are used.
The DDRAM is a 48x84 bit static RAM which stores the display data. The RAM is divided into six banks of 84 bytes (6x8x84 bits). During RAM access, data is transferred to the RAM through the serial interface. There is a direct correspondence between the X-address and the column output number.
The columns are addressed by the address pointer. The address ranges are:
X 0 to 83 (1010011)
Y 0 to 5 (101)
Addresses outside these ranges are not allowed.
In the horizontal addressing mode, the X address increments after each byte. After the last X address (X = 83), X wraps around to 0 and Y increments to address the next row. After the very last address (X = 83 and Y = 5), the address pointers wrap around to address (X = 0 and Y = 0).
Serial interface maximum 4.0 Mbits/s
The MSB of a byte is transmitted first.
The serial interface is initialized when SCE is HIGH. In this state, SCLK clock pulses have no effect and no power is consumed by the serial interface.
A negative edge on SCE enables the serial interface and indicates the start of a data transmission.
SDIN is sampled at the positive edge of SCLK. The level of the D/C signal is read during the last bit of data byte.
1. Create bitmap image using MS Paint.
2. Go to Image/Attribute option
Set width: 88 and height: 48
Select unit: Pixels color: Black and white
3. Invert color
4. Rotate 270 degree.
5. Save as image.bmp
6. In command prompt go to directory where z_bmptohex.exe is saved.
7. In command prompt type z_bmptohex image.bmp
8. You will see that image_bmp.inc file is created having hex array of [88] [6]
9. Open image_bmp.inc file in notepad and delete first four rows of array so that you get [84] [6] matrix.
10. Copy this array and convert this file according to your assembler syntax and paste into your main program code.
Source code : Nok3310_code.asm
Someone may fix in a problem with one of the costest mobile of Nokia N95.To ones waiting for the 2nd batch of n95 with perfect sliders, really doubt that nokia will modify anything on the future n95 production. Because if they do so they will be legally obliged to call back all the n95 sold around the world and replace the phones or refund the customers.
No responsibility is taken for the correctness of this information.
The tools you need are:
-a t5 torx screwdriver
-some clear cello tape
-scissors
-a pair of tweezers or anything else as long as thinner than a finger nail. nothing sharp though!
-20min of your day
-and some courage!
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lets understand why the n95 has got a loose/wobbly slider?
The following pictures will explain it to you pretty clearly;
so all we gotta do is to put some cello tape between the gap
Some n95 are more loose than the others so you gotta choose where to put the cello tape.
Options;
1. just a tiny bit loose
2. just a tiny bit loose but big gap under the "end" key
3. if its quite loose
4. if its motherF loose!
Results after putting the cello tape;
1. stiff slider
2. a very stiff slider
3. a super stiff slider
4. a mother F stiff slider
The process:
If you don’t want to do the job with oily fingers then wash your hands, switch off your phone, remove the battery cover, take the battery out and simply pop off the back cover. Look so easy:
then simply unscrew the 6 screws located on the side with your t6 screwdriver. During this process always hold the LCD part against the body.
Once unscrewed all the screws again by holding both the LCD part and the body together with your fingers and by using your nail pop off the metallic covers located on each side. Here is the metallic cover shown with an arrow:
here is what you are going to see underneath the metallic covers;
so here is the only part where you gotta be little care full. When slider in closed position simply lift slowly the LCD part of the phone from the body vertically! You are going to hear a little click, don’t worry nothing happened, its just the slider mechanism.
Then take off the plastic things located on each side and put the phone on a flat surface like a table lying on the LCD side.
Now its time to stick some cello tape on the inside of each plastic part;
like on this pic make sure that you stick the cello tape inside the curve properly; (this is where you are going to use the tweezers or something thin)
its time to cut properly the cello tape;
job done;
Its time to assemble the phone. first put back the LCD on the body, now click in left plastic part, then the right plastic part. But when putting back the plastic parts back in make sure that the sliding part of the LCD goes into the cello tape like this;
Put back the metallic covers and screws, then the cover and voila!
Check your slider? So feel much better doesn’t it? No more wobble! No more play! No more noise when pressing the navigation button!
Although there will still be a gap on the bottom side of the phone it wont wobble…
The slider has become very stiff but after a few days it would just be perfect. Try to play with it even 5 minutes of sliding it up and down will make a difference. lets say that you are unhappy with the stiffness in 3 days simply switch to another option by adding or removing some cello tape. Its advice you to start with option 1.
To help you slide the LCD part easier you may also stick a small silicon sticker similar to this one;
Personally went for the 3rd option although the slider on my 5th n95 was only a little bit loose.
Be aware Of The Caution.Nothing can go wrong if you follow exactly.
The Display (which is used in Nokia 6100, 7210, 6610, 7250 and 6220) has a resolution of 132x132 Pxieln @4096 Colors. The visible area is about 3cm x 3cm in size. It can be found cheap at *bay. Note that there exist two types of Displays:
The provided Software does only work with Displays with the Philips chipset. If you want to use a Display with S1D15G10-chipset, take a look 
here.
I have used a AVR ATMega8 to control the Display.
The display works at 3,3V. I use a voltage divider (1.8k, 3.3k to GND) to convert the 5V signals of the controller to 3,3V levels for the display.
I directly soldered a ribbon cable on the back side of the display.
Pinout and connection to AVR:
| 1 | VDD 3,3V | |
| 2 | /Reset | PB4 |
| 3 | SDATA | PB3 |
| 4 | SCLK | PB5 |
| 5 | /CS | PB2 |
| 6 | VLCD 3,3V | |
| 7 | NC | |
| 8 | GND | |
| 9 | LED- | |
| 10 | LED+ (6V) | |
| 11 | NC |
no responsibility is taken for the correctness of this information.
With the 8-Bit AVR Microcontroller i have build a rainbow-Animation, a simple oscilloscope and a Wireframe-3D-Engine:
This Software can be compiled with AVR-GCC. It display a test picture first.
It is possible to upload a RAW-RGB-Image-File via the serial interface.
nokia_6100_display_test.zip (41 KB) -
Philips PCF8833 DatasheetEpson S1D15G10 Controller, with an ATMEL AVR ATMega32L
Caution : Beaware no responsibility is taken for the correctness of this information.
Ein Dimmer ist in neueren Geräten schon zum Standard geworden. Doch auch ältere Modellen kann man die LEDs zum dimmen bringen.
Den Dimmer kannst du entweder hardwaremäßig mit eineigen Bauteilen für dein Handy realisieren. Stelle dazu vorher sicher, dass du den benötigten Platz im inneren deines Handys findest, wo du die Bauteile unterbringen kannst!
Anderseits kannst du eine Software-Funktion einfügen, womit du die LED-Ansteuerung softwaremäßig regelst und somit eine Dimm-Funktion erhältst.
Benötigt werden folgende Bauteile:
Die Bauteile kannst du z.B. in der Mulde für den Vibrations-Motor verbauen. Falls dieser durch den Motor belegt ist, können die teile auf in verschiedenen Stellen untergebracht und verlötet werden.
Als verwendeter Kondensator kann wahlweise auch ein z.B. 4,7µF-Kondensator verwendet werden.
Der Widerstand (hier: 4,7KOhm) bestimmt die Dimm-Verzögerung. Desto kleiner der Widerstand ist, desto kürzer ist die Dimmphase!
Benötigt werden folgende Bauteile:
Als verwendeter Kondensator kann wahlweise auch ein z.B. 4,7µF-Kondensator verwendet werden.
Der Widerstand (hier: 4,7KOhm) bestimmt die Dimm-Verzögerung. Desto kleiner der Widerstand ist, desto kürzer ist die Dimmphase!
Benötigt werden folgende Bauteile:
Die Bauteile liegen am unteren Rand der Tastatur-Platine.
Entferne zuerst die zwei Widerstande, so dass die Lötpads frei liegen. Dann kannst du die Schaltung an löten und die Bauteile am unteren Rand unter dem Cover unterbringen.
Benötigt werden folgende Bauteile:
Die Bauteile befinden sich auf der Platine neben dem SIM-karten-Halter, am äußeren Rand der Platine.
Benötigt werden folgende Bauteile:
Die Bauteile befinden sich auf der Platine neben der Backup-Batterie.
