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Showing posts with label Online mobile repairing. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Online mobile repairing. Show all posts
iPhone Protecor Case
iPhone Protecor Case Installation Instruction
iPhone Protecor Case Installation Instruction | |
 | 1. Put the iPhone into the front cover of the protector case. |
 | 2. Match the lock key window side to the snap joint then buckle it |
 | 3. Press the lock key side,then buckle the snap joint of camera side emphatically. |
 | 4. Press the lock key side, then move down your hand to press the snap joints tightly. |
 | 5. Installation has been finished. |
iPhone Protecor Case disassembly Instruction | |
 | 1. Grasp the iPhone, let the LCD to outside, nip the split of the charger connector, loose one side of the protector case. |
 | 2. Push the protector case following the split of the protector case,when you push to the front of the protector case,the snap joint of the side will loose to split. |
 | 3. Hold the iPhone with one hand ,grasp the back cover with the other hand, make the front cover and the back cover to be separated absolutely. |
Nokia Communication System
Can You Hear Me Now?
Background
It all started with my Nokia Communicator and my dad. My dad lives in a rural part of Oklahoma where the cell signal in the house is bad. He made a decision last year to get rid of the land line and only use the cell phones for him and mom. He bought a trucker cell phone booster online, installed it on the roof of the house and attached it to the phone and went from 0-1 bars to 5 bars. This, combined with a bluetooth headset, roughly gave him the same functionality as a cordless phone.But then there was the Nokia. I've had it about 2 years and loved it. I use the past tense because it's dead. Or at least, mostly dead. The alarms for weekly meetings still go off, but the screen is all white and I can't make or take calls. I thought that I was getting a bad phone signal when I moved to a new house recently, so I tried to see if there were any plans to make an external cell phone antenna so I wouldn't have to shell out the $70 my Dad did.
I read some books from the library, downloaded a few programs and most importantly, ran across this article (I should appologize at this point to the author, Kent Britain, if I misrepresent his article in any way). It provided information to help me come up with an ultra-cheap design of my own that performs acceptably well.
Getting Started
You'll need the following materials:- A wire pants hanger
- A length of coax cable (2' should do)
- A plug that fits into your phone's external antenna jack on your phone. (or be prepared to rig something together)
- A cutting tool for cutting the hanger wire
- A drill or awl for the cardboard portion of the hangar
- A ruler with 1/16" increments
- A soldering iron and solder
- A pen / pencil
- A sharp knife (or coax cable stripper)
Construction
- Disassemble the hangar.The wire will be used for the antenna elements and the cardboard tube will be used as the base on which to mount the elements.
- Cut the following lengths of wire (except the DE at this time) and lablel them:
- R = 3 1/8"
- DE = 2 7/8" (remember, don't cut this one yet)
- D1= 2 13/16"
- D2 = 2 3/4"
- D3 = 2 3/4"
- D4 = 2 11/16"
- D5 = 2 5/8"
- D6 = 2 5/8"
- D7 = 2 9/16"
- Mark the cardboard tube:
Along each side of the cardboard tube,draw two lines running the length of the cardboard tube. Make them roughly opposite ends of the tube from each other. The spacing isn't critical, this will just help make the elements come out in a parallel plane.
Mark the following spots from one end of the cardboard tube on each of the lines drawn previously.
- R = 1/2 "
- DE = 1 11/16"
- D1 = 2 7/16"
- D2 = 3 3/8"
- D3 = 5"
- D4 = 6 11/16"
- D5 = 9 3/16"
- D6 = 11 11/16"
- D7 = 14 5/16"
At each of the marks on both sides of the cardboard tube. The tube is hollow, so be careful to go through only one side at a time.
- Insert the elements into their respective holes.
- Prepare the coax.
There are usually five layers to coax cables. The outer plastic cover, a braided set of wires. Under the braided wires is a tin-foil thick covering of metal. This covers a thick plastic section with a thick copper wire in the center. If you are using a spare cable with coax connectors on both ends, cut one end off.
Carefully cut away the outer plastic cover about 3/4" from the end of the coax of an end of the coax with no connector.
Unbraid the wires that are showing and gather them on one side. Unwrap the metal and gather it with the unbraided wires and twist the whole thing together.
Cut through the thick plastic center being careful not to cut the center wire.
- Attach the coax to the cardboard tube.
Put the end you just prepared near the DE element and tape it in place. This will help with soldering.
- Solder the coax to the driven element.
It doesn't matter whether the center wire or the braided wire is put on top. Just put one at the center of the top and the other just below it.
- Attach the coax to the phone
If you didn't buy a plug, you will want to fabricate a plug of some sort. If you're lucky, you have a phone where it's obvious where the leads go, but some have a plug with multiple leads and you would have to do some research to find which ones to use.
Tuning
This is a directional antenna, so you'll have to figure out which direction works best. My dad knew the general direction of the nearest antenna, so there wasn't much guessing. If you're not sure, pick a random direction and wait 10-15 seconds to see if a better signal is registered. My dad's phone took about 30-45 seconds to get to 4 bars. If you don't see any results, turn 45 degrees and wait again. Odds are, you should be able to figure out the optimal direction in just a couple minutes.
How to make a RiverSpy2 monitoring system
How to make a RiverSpy2 monitoring system
Here is some idea of how to build a river level monitoring system, Daithí (last modified 25-9-06)
System Overview
The diagram below gives an overall picture of the system. At the river end, the system is broken into two parts. At the bottom of the river, bolted to an existing stick gauge (or some other convienient location) is a differential pressure sensor. This sensor measures the difference in pressure between the athmosphere and the bottom of the river. To make this differential measurement , one side of the sensor is connected to a breather tube and the other end is open to the surrounding water. The pressure difference P=ρgh , where ρ is density, g is 9.81m/s2 and h is the height between the sensor and the surface of the water. The small signal voltage is amplified by an instrumentation amplifier chip.
The sensor board is connected to the controller board via a 3-core cable. One wire carries a 10V supply to the sensor board. Another wire carries the analog pressure signal back to the controller. The third wire is a ground. The controller board is mounted somewhere on the river bank, in a weather-proof box along with a 12V battery and an old mobile phone. A solar panel is mounted above the box so the location should have an unobstructed view of the southern sky. If vandalism is a concern, the system should perhaps be mounted on top of a tree or a high pole.
Every 15 minutes, the controller board powers up the sensor board and reads the signal once per second for thirty seconds. The measurements are averaged so that the reading is not affected by surges in the water level. Once the reading has been taken, it is stored in memory and the system goes into a low power mode until it is time to take the next reading. Once a day at 09:00, the 96 measurements taken the previous day are collated into a single sms message and sent to an email gateway. The email generated is read by a server which updates the wap and web sites.
The phone that I used is an old Siemens M35, but I think that the command set is the same for all of the M,C and S 25 and 35 phones. The phone does not contain its own battery. (The batteries in those phones were fairly bad anyway) Instead it runs from a supply taken from the 12V battery via a dc-dc converter.
When the system receives a phone call, it examines the caller id to see if an administrator is calling. If it is an admin, the system allows the remote phone to ring once and then hangs up. An sms is sent to the administrator containing the most recent level, the level from 30min previous, the level from 60 min previous and the current state of the 12V battery. If the caller id is not that of an admin, the system will answer the call and give a series of beeps to indicate the most recent level.
The sensor board is connected to the controller board via a 3-core cable. One wire carries a 10V supply to the sensor board. Another wire carries the analog pressure signal back to the controller. The third wire is a ground. The controller board is mounted somewhere on the river bank, in a weather-proof box along with a 12V battery and an old mobile phone. A solar panel is mounted above the box so the location should have an unobstructed view of the southern sky. If vandalism is a concern, the system should perhaps be mounted on top of a tree or a high pole.
Every 15 minutes, the controller board powers up the sensor board and reads the signal once per second for thirty seconds. The measurements are averaged so that the reading is not affected by surges in the water level. Once the reading has been taken, it is stored in memory and the system goes into a low power mode until it is time to take the next reading. Once a day at 09:00, the 96 measurements taken the previous day are collated into a single sms message and sent to an email gateway. The email generated is read by a server which updates the wap and web sites.
The phone that I used is an old Siemens M35, but I think that the command set is the same for all of the M,C and S 25 and 35 phones. The phone does not contain its own battery. (The batteries in those phones were fairly bad anyway) Instead it runs from a supply taken from the 12V battery via a dc-dc converter.
When the system receives a phone call, it examines the caller id to see if an administrator is calling. If it is an admin, the system allows the remote phone to ring once and then hangs up. An sms is sent to the administrator containing the most recent level, the level from 30min previous, the level from 60 min previous and the current state of the 12V battery. If the caller id is not that of an admin, the system will answer the call and give a series of beeps to indicate the most recent level.
Controller board, phone, battery and solar panel mount
The photo below shows the original RiverSpy system with a controller prototyped on veroboard. RiverSpy 2 is laid out on a printed circuited board. The layout file is at the bottom of this page.
Administrator sms
When admins ring the phone, the system declines the call and sends back a text of the level now, 30mins ago and 1 hour ago. When others ring the phone, the system answers the call and gives a series of beeps to indicate the current level.
Hex file for programming PIC is here
Phone
So far, I have built systems using the Siemens M35 and the C45. Any old Siemens phone should do but the connectors on the later ones have gotten smaller so it won't be as easy to solder on the wires. The battery is removed from the phone and it is powered directly by the controller. The AT language used to talk to the internal modem is much the same for all Siemens phones. I have put some pictures of wiring an M35 here. The wire needs to be very fine. I used "wire-wrap" wire. It helps to put some solder on the wire before soldering to the phone. In the pictures shown, the red and black wires are soldered directly to the phone pcb. It is also possible (and easier) to solder them to the contacts that would normally press against the battery. Siemens also make a range of GSM modems such as the TC35. These are made for telemetry applications and would be easy to wire up but would cost you a lot more that an old phone.Phone connector pin-out here
Pictures of phone wiring here
Installation
A picture of an early RiverSpy rev 2.0 controller is shown below. The latest version is a bit larger and uses through hold components instead ofsurface mount to make it easier for an inexperienced person to assemble. I'll put up some pictures of the latest rev later.
- Terminal block for solar panel or external 12V supply
- Molex connector for battery (paralleled with connector 1)
- Debugging interface can be used to monitor phone communications using a pc serial port
- ICD2 interface for programming the PIC
- Molex connector to mobile phone
- Molex connector to underwater sensor
The controller, battery and phone should be mounted in a waterproof box. A plastic box allows optimum phone coverage but if vandalism concerns require the use of a metal box, then an external antenna for the phone may be required. A frame should be contructed to mount the solar panel and the box. To optimise solar energy in winter, the solar panel must face south, have a clear view of the sky and be inclined at 70 degrees to the horizontal. Once all of the components have been connected together, configure it as per the installation manual given below.
Send me an email if you need some help.
Installation manual is here
Debugging
I have also put up a schematic of a small circuit that I use for debugging here. All it does is convert a 5V-0V signal to a +12V-12V signal suitable for connecting to the serial port of a pc or laptop. It listens in on the communications between the control board and the phone. I normally connect it to the RX (receive) line of the PIC. RX and GND are at pins 5 and 6 of the connector J4. RX carries the data going from the phone to the PIC. The phone should echo the characters sent from the PIC to the phone so you should see both sides of the conversation. If this is not working, it can also be connected to the TX (transmit) line but this only shows the characters sent by the PIC. The characters can be displayed on the pc using hyperterminal set at COM1, 9600,N,8,1, no flow control. A similar circuit is included in a siemens pc data cable so if you have one of those, just disassemble the connector at the phone end and use that instead. The pinout of the phone connector is given here. Do not connect the TX of the data cable (pin6, RX of the phone) to the phone at the same time as connecting the TX from the PIC. (its like two people trying to talk using walkie talkies at the same time) Also note that pin 3 (Power) and pin 4 (Fbatt+) shown in the phone connector pinout are not the same as the positive terminal of the phone battery (BATT+).
Beleuchtungs-Dimmer
Beleuchtungs-Dimmer
Ein Dimmer ist in neueren Geräten schon zum Standard geworden. Doch auch ältere Modellen kann man die LEDs zum dimmen bringen.
Den Dimmer kannst du entweder hardwaremäßig mit eineigen Bauteilen für dein Handy realisieren. Stelle dazu vorher sicher, dass du den benötigten Platz im inneren deines Handys findest, wo du die Bauteile unterbringen kannst!
Anderseits kannst du eine Software-Funktion einfügen, womit du die LED-Ansteuerung softwaremäßig regelst und somit eine Dimm-Funktion erhältst.
» Dimmer im Nokia 3210:
Benötigt werden folgende Bauteile:
- Diode BAT43
- Kondensator 100 µF
- Kondensator 22 µF
- Transistor BC817
- Widerstand 4,7 kOhm
- Widerstand 10 Ohm (2x)
Die Bauteile kannst du z.B. in der Mulde für den Vibrations-Motor verbauen. Falls dieser durch den Motor belegt ist, können die teile auf in verschiedenen Stellen untergebracht und verlötet werden.
Als verwendeter Kondensator kann wahlweise auch ein z.B. 4,7µF-Kondensator verwendet werden.
Der Widerstand (hier: 4,7KOhm) bestimmt die Dimm-Verzögerung. Desto kleiner der Widerstand ist, desto kürzer ist die Dimmphase!
» Dimmer im Nokia 3310, 3330, 3410, 5510:
Benötigt werden folgende Bauteile:
- Diode BAT43
- Kondensator 100 µF
- Kondensator 22 µF
- Transistor BC817
- Widerstand 4,7 kOhm
- Widerstand 47 kOhm
Als verwendeter Kondensator kann wahlweise auch ein z.B. 4,7µF-Kondensator verwendet werden.
Der Widerstand (hier: 4,7KOhm) bestimmt die Dimm-Verzögerung. Desto kleiner der Widerstand ist, desto kürzer ist die Dimmphase!
» Dimmer im Nokia 5110, 5130, 6110, 6150:
Benötigt werden folgende Bauteile:
- Diode BAT49
- Kondensator 100 µF
- Widerstand 470 Ohm (2x)
- Widerstand 2,2 kOhm (2x)
- Widerstand 1,5 Ohm (2x)
Die Bauteile liegen am unteren Rand der Tastatur-Platine.
Entferne zuerst die zwei Widerstande, so dass die Lötpads frei liegen. Dann kannst du die Schaltung an löten und die Bauteile am unteren Rand unter dem Cover unterbringen.
» Dimmer im Nokia 6210, 6250:
Benötigt werden folgende Bauteile:
- Diode BAT43 oder BAT49
- Kondensator 22 µF
Die Bauteile befinden sich auf der Platine neben dem SIM-karten-Halter, am äußeren Rand der Platine.
» Dimmer im Nokia 7110:
Benötigt werden folgende Bauteile:
- Diode BAT43 oder BAT49
- Kondensator 100 µF / 4V
Die Bauteile befinden sich auf der Platine neben der Backup-Batterie.
LED-Bauformen
LED-Bauformen
Die Beleuchtung eines Mobiletelefons erfolgt fast ausschliesslich über SMD-LEDs. In Mobiltelefonen werden unterschiedliche Bauformen eingesetzt, die je nach Modell variieren.
» Bauform 0603:
Diese LEDs sind am meist gebräuclich und werden in den meisten Mobiltelefonen verbaut.
Hier siehst du die stark vergrößerte Ansicht der LED:
» Bauform 1206:
Diese LEDs werden in den meisten Fällen in Telefonen verbaut, wo die LEDs auf der Rückseite der Platine verbaut werden.
Hier siehst du die stark vergrößerte Ansicht der LED:
» Bauform 0805:
Diese LEDs werden nur selten verbaut.
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